Formulas

Formulas you can mix tonight, written the way a colorist would hand them over

Every formula names the product type, the shade in universal notation (like 9.21 or 8.1), the developer it runs on, the ratio, the amount and the minutes. No brand needed: the notation is the same on most professional lines, and the page tells you what to look for on the tube. Each one has a before and after, the steps, and the mistakes people make with it.

Formulas are starting points from standard colorimetry. Hair differs, products differ. Strand test, and follow your brand's instructions where they disagree.

Toner & gloss

Cancel the warmth after lightening, or refresh tone between colors. 20 to 45 minutes in the chair.

Before and after, Dark blonde (level 6) Toner: level 6 to 6 Dark blonde (level 6) 25 to 35 min Before and after, Medium blonde (level 7) Toner: level 7 to 7 Medium blonde (level 7) 25 to 35 min Before and after, Light blonde (level 8) Toner: level 8 to 8 Light blonde (level 8) 20 to 30 min Before and after, Very light blonde (level 9) Toner: level 9 to 9 Very light blonde (level 9) 20 to 30 min Before and after, Lightest blonde (level 10) Toner: level 10 to 10 Lightest blonde (level 10) 15 to 25 min Before and after, Dark blonde (6) to Medium blonde (7) Toner: level 6 to 7 Dark blonde (6) to Medium blonde (7) 25 to 35 min Before and after, Medium blonde (7) to Light blonde (8) Toner: level 7 to 8 Medium blonde (7) to Light blonde (8) 30 to 35 min Before and after, Light blonde (8) to Very light blonde (9) Toner: level 8 to 9 Light blonde (8) to Very light blonde (9) 30 to 35 min (50 with the consult and swatch) Before and after, Very light blonde (9) to Lightest blonde (10) Toner: level 9 to 10 Very light blonde (9) to Lightest blonde (10) 40 to 50 min Before and after, Lightest blonde (level 10) Silver / pearl toner at level 10 Lightest blonde (level 10) 20 to 30 min Before and after, Very light blonde (level 9) Beige / sand toner at level 9 Very light blonde (level 9) 20 to 30 min Before and after, Light blonde (level 8) Rose gold toner at level 8 Light blonde (level 8) 25 to 35 min

Full color

One permanent color, roots to ends, lifting one to three levels. 45 to 75 minutes.

Before and after, Dark brown (3) to Medium brown (4) Full color: level 3 to 4 Dark brown (3) to Medium brown (4) 45 to 60 min Before and after, Dark brown (3) to Light brown (5) Full color: level 3 to 5 Dark brown (3) to Light brown (5) 55 to 75 min Before and after, Medium brown (4) to Light brown (5) Full color: level 4 to 5 Medium brown (4) to Light brown (5) 45 to 60 min Before and after, Medium brown (4) to Dark blonde (6) Full color: level 4 to 6 Medium brown (4) to Dark blonde (6) 45 to 60 min Before and after, Light brown (5) to Dark blonde (6) Full color: level 5 to 6 Light brown (5) to Dark blonde (6) 45 to 55 min

Highlights

Foils that lift selected strands three to five levels, then a toner. 60 to 120 minutes.

Being written and tested. Toner and gloss formulas came first; this category is next.

Balayage

Hand-painted lift that gets lighter toward the ends, then a gloss. 90 to 150 minutes.

Being written and tested. Toner and gloss formulas came first; this category is next.

Color correction

Fixing a result that went wrong: too dark, too warm, banded or patchy. 120 to 240 minutes.

Being written and tested. Toner and gloss formulas came first; this category is next.

Gray coverage

Opaque, lasting coverage at any level, matched to the percentage of white. 45 to 60 minutes.

Being written and tested. Toner and gloss formulas came first; this category is next.

Going darker & filling

Taking lightened hair back down without it going flat or green. 45 to 90 minutes.

Being written and tested. Toner and gloss formulas came first; this category is next.