Forty-five grams of demi 7NB, 15 g of 7G, 60 g of 10 vol, and nothing in the bowl is there to cover. The NB carries the blend, the gold settles it, and the 3% developer opens a white hair only enough for color to sit near the surface and fade with no line. The head is a natural medium blonde about 40 percent white who wants it quieter and no monthly root.
Why 7NB carries the bowl
NB shades are formulated with more pigment than a plain natural, so a white hair takes enough beige to belong to the hair around it, and the whiter the head, the more NB goes in. A white strand has no pigment of its own, so a shade with nothing warm in it reads dull with a green edge. On a medium blonde with white through it the tinted white lands close to the hair beside it, so this level blends kindly.
| Letter line | Decimal line | On white at level 7 |
|---|---|---|
| 7NB | 7.13 | Natural beige, richer in pigment, the base of the blend |
| 7N | 7.0 | Plain natural, less pigment than the NB |
| 7NN | 7.00 | Double natural, a covering tube for stubborn white on 20 vol |
| 7G | 7.3 | Gold, a small share added to settle the tint |
| 7A | 7.1 | Ash, dingy alone on white, so only beside the NB |
Does demi permanent color cover gray hair?
No. It blends the white and leaves some of it showing. A demi on three percent, the bottle that blends puts color near the surface of a white hair, so it looks tinted and wears off over the washes. Twenty vol with a permanent natural lodges pigment inside the hair, the heavy-coverage end of this subject, and brings the line at two to three weeks with it. Better that she knows which one she is buying.
Dry hair, front first, twenty minutes
Dry, unwashed hair in four sections. The front and the part go on first. Thin sections, the whole length of the white strands this first time. Timer when the last section is on. A plastic cap for the warmth of the head and nothing hotter, since heat drives a demi deeper and it then fades less. Look at the front at 10. Rinse at 20 and dry a piece before judging it, because wet hair reads a level darker.
How long does gray blending last?
Six to ten weeks, with no line in between. The demi wears off gradually, so the white comes back across the whole head rather than as a stripe at the scalp. A solid permanent shows its line at two to three weeks, which is the whole argument for the blend.
It is not always an even fade.
A very white strand can hold a faint stain after the rest fades. Nothing put on white hair disappears completely.
Can I switch from a blend to full coverage later?
Yes, at any visit. A demi fades out rather than building up, so a permanent 7N on 20 vol goes on when she wants the white gone, mixed by the natural share for what she has, 45 minutes with the front on first. The line at two to three weeks and the monthly root come back with it.
Foils, lowlights, or half the head covered
A demi is one of three soft routes. Fine foils at the hairline copy the white coming in, and a medium blonde lifted to 9 in foils with natural pieces left out grows out on the same clock. Keep lowlights off the scalp at the face, where a permanent lowlight leaves a warm spot. Third, a deliberate partial cover: on a mostly white head, covering only half on purpose, so what washes out becomes the highlight. The white gone is a permanent 7N on 20 vol at the natural share that would cover it.